The best way to see the backcountry of western Montana is through the ears of your horse! Whether you are an experienced rider with a horse of your own and lots of trail experience or a novice (dude) who dreams of being in the saddle, western Montana has the vast mountain canyons, the fragrant pine forests, and the unspoiled wilderness that waits to echo the sound of a horses hoof.

Just south of Missoula lies one of the most scenic valleys in the country - the Bitterroot Valley. Stretching along the western border of the state, the Valley contains the Bitterroot River and is flanked on both sides by forested mountain ranges.

The Corps of Discovery came into the Bitterroot Valley on September 4, 1805 where they met Salish Indians who helped them with horses and provisions. The Indians guided Lewis and Clark through the Bitterroot Valley north to the area now known as Lolo and westward towards along the Lochsa River and over Lolo Pass.

There were many tribes that passed through the Valley but only the Salish considered it their home. The beautiful small pink flower that was used as a starch plant gave the Valley its name and later became the Montana state flower. The rich mixture of Indian lore and historic sites make the Bitterroot Valley a wonderful place to visit. Local museums and Chambers are gearing up for visitors that are seeking information about The Great Journey, Sacagawea, and pioneer settlements.

Surrounding the Bitterroot Valley is the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness comprised by the Bitterroot, Clearwater, Nez Perce, and Lolo National Forests.  The area comprises 1,337,681 acres and is the largest classified wilderness area in the United States. Elevations range from 1,600 feet in the canyon of the Selway River to over 10,131 feet atop Trapper Peak, the tallest peak in the Bitterroot Range.

The mountainous areas are primarily rugged with many river and creek canyons. Access to the Wilderness is by means of trail systems that begin on Forest Service roadways. These trailheads serve both Idaho and Montana and provide parking areas, loading stations, tie-ups, and privies.

There are literally thousands of miles of trails. Game animals include deer, elk, moose, black bear, and mountain goats.  Hundreds of high alpine lakes and small mountain streams provide excellent fishing for cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout.  The photo opportunities are beyond what one can imagine. The peach light of alpenglow at dawn or dusk, a newborn whitetail fawn hidden in the bear grass, the yellow flash of arrow leaf balsam in bloom across the hillsides, craggy rock faces, densely timbered hillsides, rolling green meadows, a trillium at the edge of a shaded pool. And the quiet-like nowhere else on earth.

Getting information or assistance of backcountry adventures is easy. Outfitting is available through a number of professionals. Good references have been received for Two Bear Outfitters of Hamilton 406-375-0070 and Circle KBL Outfitters in Darby at 406-821-0017.

The Bitterroot Valley has a couple of backcountry riding groups such as The Bitter Root Back Country Horsemen, a local chapter of a large state and national organization. Their primary mission is to protect the right to use horses on Federal and State land.  Members pledge to perpetuate the common sense use and enjoyment of horses in the wilderness, assist the various agencies responsible for the maintenance of public lands, and teach the wise use of land by horseman commensurate with our heritage. The group has a great newsletter and also organizes backcountry events and trips for members and guests.

The Happy Saddle Tramps is another riding group - ladies only. They meet every Wednesday to hit the trails or share - a tradition for almost 33 years. Guys can come along only if they wear a wig and a bra. The membership is made up of gals of all ages and newcomers are quite welcome. What a great way to see the higher elevations and Valley horse places, not to mention a way to meet new friends and accelerate finding your favorite trails.

Equine rules vary depending upon the forest's designation. Some areas have restrictions on group sizes, campfires, weed seed free feed, grazing and tethering, and overnight camping. The Wilderness is a special place strictly maintained in its natural and undeveloped state where nature always comes first.

There are a few Forest Service cabins, which may be rented by horsemen along the trails. The Horse Heaven Cabin was built in 1939 Darby, Montana and then later disassembled and transported more than 60 miles west where it once functioned as a firefighter's cabin. The one-room log cabin will accommodate four people. Contact the local West Fork Forest Service Ranger Station at 406-821-3269.

Horsemen can usually get into the backcountry in late June when the trials are thawed of winter snow and ice. The trails usually remain open until October or November but can be slippery and dangerous especially in the shadows where ice can cause the trails to be dangerous.

At present, there are no grizzly bears in the Selway Wilderness Area. Extensive research has been done in the past 5 years to determine the history of the great bruins in the area.  The introduction plan is still under scrutiny.

The Bitterroot Valley is horse country. The chief agricultural product is fine horse hay, and tons of it. Unlike other western locations, the Bitterroot Valley of Montana is blessed with an abundance of water. The mountains on both sides of the valley gather the moist air of the Pacific and snowmelt fills the creeks and rivers for the warm months of summer. Vast irrigation systems provide irrigation for the pastures and hay fields that dominate the countryside. And, in every field, are horses - Quarter horses, Paints, Tennessee Walkers, Arabians, Morgans, and mules. Saddle shops and horse trailers accent the entire area. If your heart yearns for a bedroll and a saddlebag suitcase for the backcountry, check out the Bitterroot Valley of western Montana. The Lexus has not yet replace the pickup with horse trailer and a cowboy hat worn at the dinner table is not a social disgrace. For more information on horse related publications or a list of real estate for the horse lovers, contact We Lead the Way Group through this website. We'd be happy to tie up a package for you.

Sub Alpine Larch The Bitterroot Valley is one of the few places in American where one can find the sub alpine Larch - a deciduous coniferous tree. Native American Indians dried and pounded the needles, then boiled them and used the water as a hair rinse. They also used the needles as a poultice for treatment of fever and colds. Larch, are often called Tamarack. The  needles turn yellow in the Fall and rival the color of the aspen. A rare Northwestern mountain delight.